How to Build a Mechanical Keyboard: A First-Build Guide
Updated
To build a mechanical keyboard, you pick a kit (case, plate and PCB), install the stabilizers, add switches and keycaps, and set up the firmware. With a hot-swap kit it takes an hour or two and needs no soldering, which makes it a very approachable first build. Soldered kits take longer and need a soldering iron, but follow the same steps.
What you need
| Part | Notes |
|---|---|
| Case | Holds everything; material affects weight and sound |
| PCB | The circuit board. Hot-swap is easiest for a first build |
| Plate | Holds the switches; often included with the kit |
| Stabilizers | For the spacebar, Enter, Shift and Backspace |
| Switches | One per key, plus a few spares |
| Keycaps | Check the set covers your layout's bottom row |
| Cable | Usually USB-C |
Tools: a switch puller, a keycap puller, a small screwdriver, and tweezers. Add a soldering iron and solder for a non-hot-swap PCB.
1. Choose a kit
Pick a size first: 65%, 75% and TKL are popular for a first build. Then choose a hot-swap PCB so you can change switches later without soldering. Mounting style and plate material shape the feel and sound; here's how mounting styles score in community ratings:
2. Test the PCB
Before building anything, plug the PCB in and test every switch position. Use a key tester website and either short each socket's two contacts with tweezers or press a switch into each socket. Finding a dead socket now is much easier than after the board is assembled.
3. Tune and install the stabilizers
Lube the stabilizer wire ends and housings before installing them; it's far easier now than later. Screw-in stabilizers attach to the PCB; plate-mount ones clip into the plate. Check each long key goes down smoothly without rattle. See keyboard stabilizers explained.
4. Add foam (optional)
If your kit includes foam, it usually goes between the PCB and the bottom of the case, and sometimes between the plate and PCB. See keyboard foam explained.
5. Install the switches
Line the plate up with the PCB and put a switch in each corner first to hold them together. Then fill in the rest. Check each switch's pins are straight before pressing it in; bent pins are the most common reason a key doesn't work. On a soldered board, solder each switch once the plate is fully populated.
6. Mount it in the case
Drop the assembly into the case and screw it in, following the kit's instructions for its mounting style. Don't overtighten screws on plastic parts.
7. Add keycaps and test again
Fit the keycaps, starting with the long keys so you can check the stabilizers. Then run every key through a tester one more time.
8. Set up the firmware
Many enthusiast boards support QMK or VIA, which let you remap keys and set up layers, for example putting F-keys on a function layer on a 65%. Some use the manufacturer's own software.
Is building a keyboard hard?
A hot-swap build is about as hard as assembling flat-pack furniture: mostly patience and care with small parts. Soldering adds a skill to learn, but it's a common first soldering project. The fiddliest step for most people is stabilizers.
After the build
Record a short typing sample. It's the easiest way to hear what each later change does, whether that's new keycaps, foam or a thockier sound.
Frequently asked questions
Is it hard to build a mechanical keyboard?
Not with a hot-swap kit. It's mostly patience with small parts and takes an hour or two. Soldered kits add a skill to learn but follow the same steps.
Do you need to solder to build a keyboard?
No. Hot-swap PCBs let you push switches in by hand. You only need to solder for a non-hot-swap PCB.
What do I need to build a keyboard?
A case, PCB, plate, stabilizers, switches, keycaps and a cable, plus a switch puller, keycap puller, small screwdriver and tweezers.
What should I do first when building a keyboard?
Test the PCB before assembling anything, so a dead socket is easy to spot and return.