Should You Lube Your Switches? Lubed vs Unlubed
Updated
For linear switches, usually yes. Lubing removes scratch and spring ping, so each press feels smoother and sounds deeper and more even. Tactile switches benefit too if you keep lube off the bump. Clicky switches are mostly best left alone. You don't have to lube anything: many switches now come factory-lubed and sound good out of the box, and lubing a full board takes several hours.
What does lubing switches do?
A switch makes noise and friction in a few places: the stem sliding against the housing, the spring rubbing and ringing, and the stem hitting the top and bottom. A thin layer of lube on the stem rails, housing and spring:
- Smooths the feel: less scratch as the stem slides.
- Quiets spring ping: the thin metallic ring after each press.
- Changes the sound: usually deeper, rounder and less rattly. This is a big part of how people get a creamy keyboard.
It won't change how heavy a switch is or turn a bright clack into a deep thock by itself. The case, plate and keycaps still shape the pitch. See what makes a keyboard sound good.
Lubed vs unlubed
| Unlubed | Lubed | |
|---|---|---|
| Feel | Can be scratchy, depending on the switch | Smoother, more consistent |
| Sound | Brighter, more rattle and ping | Deeper, softer, more even |
| Effort | None | Roughly 3–5 minutes per switch, so 4–8 hours for a full board |
| Risk | None | Too much lube feels sluggish; on tactiles it can dull the bump |
Should you lube by switch type?
- Linear: the best candidates. With no bump to protect, you can lube the stem, housing and spring for the smoothest result. See what are linear switches.
- Tactile: worth it, carefully. Lube the stem rails, housing and spring lightly, and keep lube off the bump itself so it stays crisp.
- Clicky: usually not. The click comes from a separate part inside the switch, and lube on it can soften or dull the click you bought them for. Some box-style clicky switches also leak lube out of the housing. See tactile vs clicky switches.
- Silent switches: the dampeners already handle the bottom-out noise. A light lube can still help scratch, but the gain is smaller.
Should you lube pre-lubed switches?
Usually not at first. Most factory lube is a light coat that already removes the worst scratch. Try them as they are. If you still hear spring ping or feel scratch, a light hand-lube on top can help. Don't go heavy on top of factory lube, or the switch can feel slow.
Lube the stabilizers first
If your spacebar, Enter or Shift keys rattle, lubing and tuning the stabilizers makes a bigger difference than lubing switches, and takes well under an hour rather than most of a day. See keyboard stabilizers explained.
Is lubing switches worth it?
- You hear scratch, rattle or ping and you enjoy tinkering? Yes. It's one of the most effective sound upgrades there is.
- Your switches are factory-lubed and sound fine? Skip it, or lube a few as a test before committing to the full set.
- Short on time? On a hot-swap board, swapping to smooth factory-lubed linears gets you most of the way there.
Frequently asked questions
Do you have to lube switches?
No. Many switches come factory-lubed and sound good out of the box. Lubing is an upgrade for smoother feel and a deeper, more even sound.
Should I lube pre-lubed switches?
Usually not at first. Try them as they are, and only add a light coat if you still hear spring ping or feel scratch.
Can you lube clicky switches?
You can lube the spring and stem rails lightly, but lube on the click mechanism can soften or dull the click. Most people leave clicky switches unlubed.
How long does it take to lube switches?
Roughly 3–5 minutes per switch once you're set up, so about 4–8 hours for a full board of 70–100 switches. Working in batches helps. Stabilizers take well under an hour and often make a bigger difference.
Can you over-lube switches?
Yes. Too much lube makes linears feel slow and sticky and dulls the bump on tactiles. A thin, even coat is the goal.
